Mark of Crescent Root Studio keeps creating excellent 28mm terrain. I already own eight of his Middle Eastern buildings and they’re superb for Pulp gaming.
Earlier this year he expanded the range to include several taller buildings with domed roofs and I couldn’t resist any longer. I ordered a couple of these new buildings last week and they’ve just arrived so here’s a quick review.
As usual I ordered unpainted buildings because they’re cheaper and I enjoy painting them myself. All of Mark’s terrain comes pre-primed and is cast in a sturdy yet light resin product. He must use some kind of micro-bead filler to extend the resin because with handling the buildings are always noticeably lighter than they appear to be. However they’re still weighty enough to stay in place during gaming.
Parts and Prep
These particular buildings consist of two large parts: the slightly raised basic building and a removable tower room. Both roofs are also removable which is important during gaming, and you’re supplied with two drop in doors for the doorways.
Prior to painting I find it’s a good idea to check everything fits well as occasionally light filing is required for ease of use. It’s also not a bad idea to spend a little time examining the doorways and windows as you may have to file off a little extra resin left from the casting process.
After this basic clean up I’ve always painted my Crescent Root buildings without any further preparation or priming. I use Resene interior acrylic house paints which bond very well with the pre-primed resin as I’ve yet to chip a building and they’ve been extensively handled.
Building Design
I purchased these buildings primarily because of their towers and domed roofs. Both these features distinguish them from my earlier Crescent Root purchases and mixing them in with my painted buildings gives the table a very nice Middle Eastern feel as shown in the table layout.
These buildings are noticeably taller than my others, mainly because their base is quite built up, with three steps leading up off the street to the ground floor. Pulp gamers will also notice the small, three windowed tower rooms make excellent “sniper nests” for your Rifle or SMG armed villains. Unfortunately there’s no way to get up to that tower room without a ladder - which means I’ll have to scratch a few together from balsa wood, or simply reuse the crude ladders I made years ago for my Mordheim table. Possibly Mark from CRS might consider creating some ladder accessories for these fine buildings.
One thing that does concern me about that tower room is that it simply rests on the walls below it. There’s no system for locking the tower in place at all which means it could be at risk from clumsy hands on the gaming table. I’ll probably end up drilling some aligned holes in the base of each tower and then applying some short ‘pins’ made from bamboo skewers in the wall below so the two pieces do lock together.
As usual I’m perfectly happy with my latest purchase from Crescent Root Studios. That’ll probably do for buildings now, although once I’ve laid them all out I notice there’s an obvious lack of fenced in back alleys. I suspect I’ll end up purchasing some of CRS’s matching Middle Eastern Walls at some point…







Love that last picture. Only thing missing is a scimitar-wielding swordsman to shoot. ;)
Indeed, I’ve definitely got to paint my Cairo civilians as well before we start campaigning again.
I’m also thinking of putting together a few simple clothes lines (thread and PVA’d tissue) to string up on the a couple of roofs.
And I need crates…lots of crates!
Goats, maybe, or other livestock? A small wandering herd could cause some commotion. :)
Nice shots! You keep showing more terrain stuff. I’d like to know ho you store all your stuff!?! Do you have any picturte of your storage area (or does it fill your entire basement?). :-)
Cheers!
I blogged about my work area a while back. It’s half of a double bay garage. Since then I’ve added a second storage cabinet. Painted stuff typically goes in these cabinets, while unpainted and unassembled stuff lives in boxes in the garage rafters…
Great stuff! I’m thinking of picking the wall set to use as a BUA for my Crusades period armies. The ones with the cracked plaster look alot like the ruined walls of Antioch.
As one of the lucky ones who gets to see all Stu’s work in real life I can confirm that his storage area is quite expansive with finished/unfinished pieces spread throughout the garage, on the walls, under tables, in the rafters, all over the couch, on the clothes dryer AND filling 2 full size cupboards… but for me the real fun comes from being able to have the odd poke through them all!
I’ve been gaming with Stu over a year and there are still treasures that he pulls out from time to time.
Mostly unfinished pieces tho…. ;o)
I’m a big fan of the Resene test pots (especially as I buy them using lots of buy 2, get 1 free coupons) but I’d be interested to know what colours you use for the North Africa/med look as wekll the European schemes - I’ve still got a whole bunch of the old 15mm Battlefront buildings that need painting and setting before July.
Hi Peter, I thought I’d mentioned my painting recipe in the past, but I can’t find it on the site. So here’s what I’m doing:
- Base painted with Resene Sandcastle, wait till it’s completely dry.
- Washed with a mixture of Kiwi liquid brown shoe polish, Indian ink, Klear floor wax and water. The Indian ink is added to the Kiwi shoe polish bottle (after snapping the foam pad lid off) to kill the red tones and turn it into a darker chestnut tone. I mix that by eye.The floor wax/water is mixed at around 30% wax. Then I add the shoe polish mix until I get a suitable wash.
- Wait overnight until that mess dries.
- Drybrush with Sandcastle again, the highlighted with a little Resene Pearl Lusta drybrushed over that.
Ah excellent, many thanks, I’m heading into the Resene place today to pick up a few pots so i’ll add that to the list.
No worries, nice site by the way Peter! Where are you based in NZ? Auckland by any chance?
Palmerston North. One of the organisers of Panzerschreck, a Flames of War tourney that’s being going since just before the rules were finally published
Greetings, a thought regarding the tower and “pins” to keep the tower from being knocked off the base building: Could you not pick a material (balsa or foam) and cut a shape that fits within the the base building walls and creates a lip… am I describing this right?
I’m bookmarking your blog. Thanks.
Jon
Hi Jon, that’s a fine idea, although it is kind of handy to have removable towers with flat bottoms because you can use them as small, separate buildings too.
In the end I went with applying metal pins to the main building that the towers sit on - again so they’re still flat on the bottom.