I completed this Orc Boar Chariot over the week, painting and dipping the boars, riders and several parts of the chariot separately before putting it all together. This turned out to be something of a mistake because evidently you’re supposed to build the boars into the chariot before painting. Ah well, a sharp xacto blade and a little minor surgery on the chariot body got the boars into their harnesses with no obvious damage.
I have to say I’m pretty pleased with the end result. In particular the wood effect is superb considering it’s just a coat of dip over a Graveyard Earth base. I used to get much the same effect by messing around with several layers of drybrushing and an ink wash. The boars also turned out well I think, considering they’re painted with only three colours prior to dipping.
The next task is to find a reasonable way to dip Goblin Wolf Riders. The challenge is I’d like the wolves to be quite a dark tone. I’m considering mixing a small amount of darker dip and using a lightened base coat of Scorched Brown. Even though I bought the smallest tin of stain available, and I’ve dipped 20 Orcs and this chariot I still have plenty left in the tin, so dipping is not only easy it’s also economical. The wolf riders will get the same treatment as the Orcs and once I’ve painted ten wolf riders I will have completed a 500pt Border Patrol force.
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Nice one, again, Stu!
I am sold on the dipping now and probably wouldn’t consider going back to highlighting etc etc any time soon. look forward to seeing more warhammer, mate.
Regards,
Monty
A technique I use with my “dipping” is to spray on a very light coat of dullcote when the dip is dry. I then highlight areas of flesh, uniform and weapons. To give further definition, I will even black line. Then re-seal it with dullcote.
Hi Stu
How long does it take for the dip to dry completely. I ask because I tried an orc with a stain, sans the varnish, and it feels tacky a day later.
Hi Craig, I matt varnish afterwards as well, but have yet to try over painting anything. I’m just basing and dipping at pace at the moment. I should assemble a hero figure and try overpainting on that for a little extra detail.
Brian, to be honest I wouldn’t know about just a pure stain – what’s the product’s recommended drying time? With the mixed Wattyl stain/varnish product I find overnight is fine for a full dry. I also elevate my dipped figures by using old plastic GW sprue as a ‘drying rack’. That lets air circulate around the entire figure and it’s base which helps I believe, particularly since when you dip you tend to get a fair amount of varnish around and under the base.
Brian, Pure stain will never dry properly, it needs the varnish to set. Stain is designed to soak into woodwith most of the liquid being absorbed and a small amount of evaporation.
For dipping you essentialy need a pigmented varnish. The all in one we use is a convenient translucent brown, to which Stu has added some dark stain to adjust the colour. Stain is good as a tint because it is basically pigment in a translucient base.
Theoretically (Clear Varnish + Stain) = Dipping mix. The only rule is they need to have solvent. usually mineral turps.
I am going to try mixing clear enamel varnish with enamel tamia smoke and clear green and try for a colour to dip some plague marines
*Correction*
The only rule is they need to have the same solvent. usually mineral turps.