Create Details

Early 20th century buildings typically include a lot of surface detail they’re built from brick with added stucco or concrete rendered details over the top. Building details are fairly repeatative so I usually create a few simple masters for pillars and panels, and then cast them in resin to add to the basic flat wall described in the previous post.

The masters for these building details are small and constructed from various thicknesses of plastic card, super glue and green stuff. You should be able to create these detail pieces in an evening of sculpting. The photo shows the only masters I created for this second facade, apart from my generic 15mm windows. There’s a basic pillar which is made from plastic card strips, green stuff and some resin details I cut off an earlier pillar I made for my first 15mm facade. There’s also a left and right decorative bracket which adds to the roofline. Again this is constructed from the swirl piece cut from an earlier pillar, a scrap of plastic card and some green stuff.

Mold and Cast Details

Once these details are mastered I mold them, using the technique I’ve discussed in another tutorial and cast them in resin enough times to cover the facade. Be aware that casting in resin with some molding rubbers tends to destroy the mold as it leaches silicone from the rubber, eventually making it brittle and your mold prone to tearing and losing detail. That’s ok though because for this facade I only needed around 10 casts of the pillar.

You can see the RTV rubber mold in the photo as well. For resin molding I typically dust the entire mold with an un-scented baby talcum powder which acts as a mold release for the set resin pieces. The talcum powder will also help the resin flow into small details and corners. I use a 1:1 clear mix resin product from TopMark here in New Zealand. For European and US visitors I’m sure you can find an equivalent resin product from a local supplier. I mix the resin and pour it into the mold, and use a toothpick to lift and air bubbles trapped in corners before the resin starts to cure and turn opaque. The mold is then covered with an old CD jewel case cover, which has also been liberally dusted with baby talcum powder. This is because you want the detail casts to have a flat back, but you don’t want them to stick to the CD cover.

Cast enough resin details, clean them up with some light triming and filing and you can start applying them to the basic wall. It’s often worth casting a few extra parts and storing them for later re-molding (if your original mold has perished from the resin casting), or for use in creating new master pieces.

Applying Details

Here’s the finished master for the 15mm facade. You can see I’ve applied a set of the cast resin pillars and added the roof bracket details as well. Two resin pillars were cut down to make the smaller pillars flanking the top window. The rest of the building detailing has been added using a variety of thicknesses of plastic card cut into strips. This is where the faded pen guide lines the basic wall picked during casting come in handy to keep everything fairly straight. It’s worth taking the time to make sure everything is straight because you want to cast a set of these. For example several of the pillars were glued down and then pried up and reseated to get them straight.

Unfortunately I can see several parts of this facade that are crooked, can you spot them? The bottom left pillar is crooked, the middle row far left window isn’t straight and some of the plastic card trim has a noticeable bend in it. However chances are you won’t notice these issues once the buildings are on the gaming table and you’re standing 2-3 feet away from them.

Also take some time to make sure everything is well sealed. You can see above I’ve used a grey epoxy resin to seal the tops and bottoms of the resin pillars against the plastic card strips. I’ve also brushed on a water based DIY gap filler product to seal the gaps around the resin window frames and seat them into the basic wall more smoothly. This step is important because you want to get a clean mold of the whole facade, and having gaps between parts will allow the RTV to sneak behind details, leaving you with some fiddly mold trimming to do.

In the final post, I’ll cover molding, casting and creating terrain with the complete 15mm facade.

Related posts:

1. Sculpting a 15mm Building I – Tutorial
2. Tutorial: Cheap Flexible 15mm Roads
3. FOW: 15mm Zeltbahn Tent Variants

I’ve created a couple of 15mm building facades for European style 19th century buildings for war games like Flames of War. The first of which you see to the left. I’ve just completed the second after a three year gap so thought I’d document the process here for future reference.

Inspiration

The first step is to find a building that you want to render in 15mm scale. There’s plenty of World War II photos on the internet and a Google image search will find you a bunch. Unfortunately these are typically either aerial reconnaissance photos taken from great height, or street level photos taken after terrible bombing has occurred. At any rate they typically lack enough detail to work from. I just wandered around my local city (Auckland, NZ) looking for buildings that were built in the early 1900′s that I thought wouldn’t look out of place in a European city, or on a WWII war gaming table. My second 15mm facade was inspired by the building to the right. The roof line in particular looked European to me.

The Basic Wall

I’ve created both the facades by starting with a plain 5mm thick wall of cast Ultracal 30 (a hard plaster) with voids for the doors and windows. Once I have a basic wall I’m happy with I add details with resin cast parts and green stuff patching.

So here’s the basic wall mold for my second facade. This has been created from a piece of white plastic which you can see has been measured up for 15mm scale high floors and gridded to indicate placement of the doors and windows. The important thing to remember here is that this mold is reversed. That’s because you want the smooth, face down side to become the outer facing surface on your final basic wall. The walls of the mold are build from cut plastic card and are held in place and sealed with masking tape. You can see a piece of foam board has been cut to act as a former for the curved roof detail. Cut foam board pieces have been glued to the backing plastic where the doors and window voids need to be.

Ultracal 30 is then mixed and poured carefully into this simple mold, making sure we go no thicker than the 5mm foam card door and window inserts. Once the whole mess has set you should be able to pop the backing plastic off the basic wall, push out the foam card voids and tidy it all up with some careful filing.

Here’s the de-molded basic wall, which has had the foam card spacers removed. You can see a bit of the foam card left around the large bottom window. Notice this is the face down side of the mold, and you can see where the Ultracal 30 has lifted the penned in grid lines from the mold above. That’s actually kind of handy as they can also act as guides while you’re apply details.

I’ve forced in some custom resin windows I’ve sculpted as well, unfortunately breaking the basic wall in half in the process. That’s why you can see a crack running across the bottom of each window pillar. Doesn’t look like much at the moment does it? That’s because it needs some details!

The next post I’ll cover sculpting, casting and applying resin details to the master.

Related posts:

1. Sculpting a 15mm Building II – Tutorial
2. Tutorial: Cheap Flexible 15mm Roads
3. Tutorial: Weathering Vehicles with Marmite

You can spot the recently painted portee trucks in the foreground from their slightly different tone due to a flatter varnish, and five less years of aging in my gaming garage. I should also bust out my New Zealand North African Rifle Company for a few games of Flames of War, particularly now I’ve repriced the whole force to the latest army lists.

Next up I hope to finally finish my 15mm Ancient Carthaginian force too (which I planned to complete in 2008), and yes Griff, paint the last 11 Genestealers…

A while back Jonathan mentioned he’d had some success using strips of weed mat and brown builder’s caulk to create flexible 15mm roads. I didn’t have any caulk handy but I did have half a tube of Selley’s Liquid Nails in the garage so tried it out myself. My test road features in the above photo. It’s nicely textured and takes paint well and is easily flexible enough to mold to the contours of my modular table set up. It worked so well I’ve put together this brief tutorial on how to create as much road strip as you need for negligble cost.

1. Assemble the materials. Like Jonathan I used a cheap, porous, textured weed mat for the base of my roads. It’s thin and sturdy with a low cost of around $8nz for a 5m roll of the stuff. Cut it into strips, arcs and other shapes as you need for your table. For this tutorial I’ve glued a couple of scraps together to create a ‘T’ junction piece.

You also need something to texture your road. Jonathan used a brown builder’s caulk, however I opted for Selley’s Liquid Nails. This DIY product dries to a water-proof flexible rubber consistency and I suspect it’s simply an industrial strength PVA. The advantage of using porous textured weed matting as the base is that the Liquid Nails will have no problem adhering to the matting, and dries into a fairly robust piece of terrain.

To detail the roads I used a mixture of cheap kitty litter and mixture of Woodland Scenics model railway ballasts (that is what’s in the plastic container in this photo). Three bags of varying grades of model railway ballast mixed together with some kitty litter for larger boulders and you’ve got yourself and endless supply of texturing gravel. I’ve been using this same plastic container of gravel for seven years to detail my Mordheim table and buildings, my 15mm North African terrain, other random scenery pieces and various figure bases.

The roads were textured with a set of cheap Chinese hog bristle art brushes, which were also used to paint the roads with a mixture of several interior acrylic house paint test pots from a local paint manufacturer.

2. Apply your Liquid Nails or Caulk. Once you’ve cut your weed mat into various shapes, it’s time to start slapping glue around. This is a particularly messy process so it’s best performed in old clothing in a work area. I found the easiest way to do it was to apply the Liquid Nails from the caulking gun in a tight ‘S’ pattern across a third of the weed matting. Then spread it across the mat to create a smooth surface using a wide, slightly wet brush. Take your time, cleaning the brush regularly but being careful not to dilute the liquid nails at all.

The glue will travel through the weed mat, so use a smooth work surface that you can peel the final road section off once complete. Here I’ve used the lid of a large plastic pail. Also don’t concern yourself about keeping a clean edge on the road piece. Just slap the glue around because once everything is dry you can just go back with a pair of scissors or an Xacto blade and trim the edges back neatly. It is also worth leaving yourself a couple of cm of weed mat uncovered at one end of the road so you’ve got something to handle the section by. I neglected to do so in this photo, so got a little messy when it came to removing the road strip to dry.

3. Coarsely texture the road with tire tracks. You need to apply some texture to the glue before it dries so you’ve got something to paint. The amount and type of texturing you want to do at this point depends on your setting. I textured my roads fairly heavily as they’re meant to represent hard pack sand trails through the North African desert. Of course depending on the final paint job they could have just as easily represent muddy Normandy farm roads or frozen rutted tracks across the Russian steppes.

At any rate what I did was take an old piece of bamboo and carved it into a spoon shape (see photo) and used this to carve fairly deep and rough ‘tracks’ into the glue. You can be fairly crude about it because this isn’t the final step of the texturing. If you don’t have bamboo handy, light dowel or balsa would work just as well.

4. Add some roadside gravel. For additional texturing I scattered some of my ballast mix around by applying several generous pinches of mix to the roadsides.

Don’t be too liberal because of course the point of roads is that they’re usually clear of obstacles! However once again this is meant to be a sort of crude desert trail and gravel at the road edges helps it visually blend into the table. Don’t worry about how well the stones are placed in the glue because the next step will help blend everything together nicely.

5. Smooth with a damp brush. To take the edge off the heavy texturing from step three and to get a good bond for the gravel from the last step take a wide, middling wet brush and lightly smooth it over the road section in a consistent direction. You’ll have to wash an re-wet the brush a few times depending on the length of your road section. You’re not trying to remove any glue here, but just to bed the gravel down and soften the heavy ruts so they look a little more realistic.

6. Leave to dry. You’re done! Make sure you give your brushes a good clean and leave your road strip somewhere warm to dry. It’s worth checking on the strip once or twice and once it’s started to cure, peeling it off the work surface to ensure it’s not permanently bonding to that! However make sure you leave the strip to dry completely before doing anything else with it. Obviously this depends on your climate and the type of ‘Liquid Nails’ or caulking you’ve used but I find overnight is usually sufficient.

Once dry you’ll have a flexible, textured piece of road strip that will be ready to paint. Don’t be surprised if the road curves inwards slightly as it dries because we can correct this during painting, and in the next post I’ll discuss how I’ve painted my road pieces to match my own gaming table.

Related posts:

1. Sculpting a 15mm Building I – Tutorial
2. Sculpting a 15mm Building II – Tutorial
3. Tutorial: Weathering Vehicles with Marmite

I did start the challenge fairly strong, with the three DAK armored platoons I needed primed and ready to paint. It wasn’t long before I’d weathered all my DAK tanks with Marmite and the turrets were finished a week later!

Then things went on the back burner and here we are early June and all I’ve managed to finish and varnish is the two DAK panzers you see above – a IIIJ late and a IV F2. Still I feel a little more inspired now and will try and get some more of this army painted this year. How did everybody else go?

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge III
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II
3. Long Range Desert Group Recreators

Battlefront are increasing their prices on average 11% across their range of figures and vehicles in one week. Rulebooks and gaming accessories (dice, templates) are not increasing in price. It’s been over three years since our local New Zealand market has seen a price increase from Battlefront and I personally haven’t bought any Flames of War figures for almost exactly two years so I can’t really complain!

The good news is that while Battlefront are about to increase their prices, we’ve been promised those prices will stay in place for at least another two years, so once again we really have no grounds for complaint. The way Battlefront treat their customers still makes me glad I play their games, almost makes me wish I’d given them more of my money in fact! Which reminds me weren’t their vague rumors a while back about them starting a new period game system? Whatever happened to that? Daniel – you’re our resident Battlefront guru, any ideas?

On this theme, John Campbell on TV3 last night mentioned ‘Expedition Saharan Saunter 2009′ which is a group of Long Range Desert Group re-creators:

“We are planning an Expedition to follow the footsteps (or wheel ruts) of the brave men of the LRDG and cover some of the routes and battlefields in the western desert. This will be a dynamic site updated regularly to keep all informed of our exciting project.”

Sounds like a hell of a challenge to me and I’ll be interested to see how they get on next year!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge Long Gone
2. Space Hulk: Dipped Genestealers Group

This little diorama that is intended to show a couple of unfortunate motorbike pioneers that have found themselves behind enemy lines – Flames of War objectives are typically placed on the enemy side of the table.

It’s assembled from a mix of ‘bitz box’ pieces. The BMW + sidecar are from Battlefront, although I’ve sculpted a couple of cushions in the sidecar as this space is usually filed with a passenger. The figures are Peter Pig Germans in ‘relaxed’ poses, drinking from enamel mugs. One of them carries the MG34 for the sidecar. The open Zeltbahn tent is a two part resin cast of my original sculpts. The open side is held up by 1mm plastic rod. I intend to put these three Zeltbahn up for sale soon at $6us a pack of the three variants I’ve mentioned earlier.

Painting the objective will be interesting as Zeltbahn were printed in a disruptive and splinter camo which will probably be hard to replicate in 15mm! I’ll most likely just try and get a good faded look to the tent as this objective will be used for my DAK force.

Comments welcome as always, particularly if you’ve got any suggestions for getting over a modeling slump…

Related posts:

1. FOW: 15mm Zeltbahn Tent Variants

This first shot shows the Panzer IV turrets, with the commander getting the long barreled IV F2. My DAK force represents units from the 15 Panzer division in North Africa, hence the single digit turret designations. I believe these digits are supposed to be a solid red too, but these were the only decals I had to hand.

Here’s the HQ IIIj late turrets. You can see the weathering effect I applied to these tanks has been softened by the subsequent ink washing and drybrushing to give a reasonably convincing effect in 15mm scale. Now I just have to paint up a couple of tank bodies before the end of this month to have completed the first unit for the three month challenge.

Incidentally the photos on this post were taken after reading Hyun’s excellent mini photography tutorial on Wee Toy Soldiers. I’m not saying they’re superb photos by any means (the figures are too dark), but I think his tutorial has definitely improved my mini photography skills. Certainly worth checking out.

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge Long Gone
3. FOW: Magnetised Tunisian Tiger

Base Coat your Model

For this tutorial we’ll be applying the base weathering coat to a Flames of War 15mm German ‘Famo’ 18-ton half track. This first photo shows you the model after it’s been base coated a with Tamiya German Gray spray can and left to thoroughly dry. You can also see the other supplies I’ll be using: a Tamiya Dark Yellow spray can, a fresh pot of delicious Marmite, an application tool and an old toothbrush. As our European or American visitors may have some difficulty finding Marmite, they may wish to experiment with other foodstuffs. The Marmite is really just used as a cheap masking medium that can be dabbed onto a model easily, isn’t too greasy or sticky and dissolves in warm water. Let us know what else works! It’s also worth noting that this technique requires you apply the top coat of paint as a spray, so you’ll either have to find a spray can of your chosen colour or own an airbrush.

Apply Delicious Marmite

My Marmite application tool is made from an old paintbrush handle, a rubber band and a torn half from one of my lovely wife’s round makeup sponges. Marmite is applied with the torn edge of the make up sponge which of course has a nicely random pattern to it. Dab the tool into the Marmite to load it up. Don’t get too much Marmite on there at once, I typically dab it on the bad of my hand or a scrap of paper to remove any excess until it produces a nice stippled pattern. I then dab the Marmite over the vehicle in appropriate places wear would occur. Reference photos and common sense apply here. Paint chips and damage usually happen to the fronts of vehicles and wear from crew entering/exiting the vehicle happens around doors and hatches etc. This second photo shows the Famo after I’ve applied the Marmite. Generally I’m not too fussy when it comes to applying the Marmite. If you end up with a few dabs here and there in the wrong place it doesn’t matter because you can always block paint over those areas while you’re finishing the vehicle off post weathering. For this particular model I haven’t bothered weathering the back tray at all because I have a set of stowage glued to some plasti-card I’m going to paint separately and drop into that space.

Top Coat your Model

Once you’re happy with your Marmite application simply spray the top coat of paint on and leave it to dry. Here’s the Famo after a Tamiya Desert Yellow spray. It’s essential that both the base and top coats of paint are completely dry for the weathering to work correctly. This is because the final step involves a moderately vigorous scrubbing with warm water and your old toothbrush. So leave your vehicle until you’re absolutely sure the paint has dried to a sturdy top coat – otherwise you’re likely to scrub the vehicle back down to the base coat!

Bath Time

For the final step, take your painted model and immerse it in a mixture of fairly warm water and household dish-washing detergent. Leave it there for a minute or two for the Marmite to soften and then carefully scrub every surface of the model with your old toothbrush. The Marmite will dissolve into the water, taking patches of the top coat with it and reveal the base coat underneath. Keep scrubbing until you’re confident you’ve removed all trace of the Marmite and then leave your model to dry.

Here’s the 18 ton Famo after it’s been scrubbed. This completes the basic weathering effect and over-painting and detail work can now begin. The weathering at this point may look quite stark and a touch over-done, but it’ll be toned down with futher painting steps. Typically I brown ink-wash my vehicles after this step to bring out the edges etc. and then block coat the basic colour over the vehicle again, fixing up any overly zealous weathering as I go. Then a couple of layers of lighter colour are drybrushed on to pick out the edges and mute the weathering down.

Comments and questions are welcomed as always!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II
2. Tutorial: Cheap Flexible 15mm Roads
3. Sculpting a 15mm Building I – Tutorial

One of the variants open on the other side, and the other is sculpted in two parts to represent an open sided tent. The idea is to cut a couple of thin pieces of 0.8mm wires and use them as poles to support the open side. I’ve placed the masters down next to a base of Flames of War German Panzergrenadiers.

I plan to mold these over the weekend and then try a few resin casts and build up a custom objective for my DAK Germans. Right, now these are out of the way it’s back to painting!

Related posts:

1. FOW: German Zeltbahn Objective
2. Sculpting a 15mm Building II – Tutorial
3. Sculpting a 15mm Building I – Tutorial

Here’s all the Panzers and new Tiger for my DAK force spray painted using a simple weathering technique. It’s a little hard to see in this night-time photo, but they’ve all been based Tamiya German Gray, spattered with Marmite (using a ripped up makeup sponge purloined from my wife’s bedside table) and then sprayed over with Tamiya Dark Yellow. Once the top coat was dry the tanks were soaked in hot, soapy water and then scrubbed down with an old toothbrush. The Marmite disolves, lifting the top coat away to reveal the German Gray underneath. The effect is probably most obvious on the hulking great Tunisian Tiger 1E by looking at the turret top and 88 barrel for example. A couple of people over in the Flames of War forum expressed interest in the technique so I’ll try getting a photo tutorial together shortly.

For the challenge I only need to paint five of the Panzers but thought I might as well hit all the tanks with the technique at once to save some spray paint. I’ve also block painted and weathered the turrets of those five Panzers I need, although still have the turned out crew to paint and have a couple of the tank bodies ink washed too. I’ll post some more progress once I have some tanks completely painted. Of course I need to finish at least two this month to meet the challenge, but I’m fairly confident that’s achievable!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge Long Gone
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge III
3. FOW: Magnetised Tunisian Tiger

Fortunately one member of our gaming group has so many Flames of Wars figures, vehicles and entire armies that he’s usually pretty good to hit up for spare stuff. So I traded one of my 1930′s facades and a few resin Zeltbahn for one slightly used Tunisian Tiger 1E from the “Shop of Daniel”.

After stripping it with methylated spirits I took it apart and then pinned the tracks and barrel back on. I stuffed the housing ring a little getting the barrel off, but nothing a touch of green stuff won’t fix. The Tiger was apparently painted using Vallejo and I was surprised how easily it stripped off in meths. Typically I paint everything with Tamiya or Games Workshop acrylics and have always had to leave stripping pieces in overnight to soften these paint jobs. Not so with Vallejo, because after dumping the Tiger in, the paint almost immediately softened and could be rubbed off with a finger tip. A point worth remembering for the future I suppose.

As the Tiger has such a large nose-heavy turret I also broke out some rare earth magnets and dropped a couple into the turret and body and damned if they don’t work a treat! The turret isn’t at all floppy after magnetising and traverses very nicely and smoothly. I’m now considering using the rest of my rare earth magnets to do the same to my remaining Panzers and possibly my painted NZ Shermans and Stuarts. It takes a little more effort to do, and make very sure you glue the magnets in the right way, but damaged and lost turrets should be a thing of the past if I do all my tanks this way.

Update: Since writing this post I spent another hour going through all my other Panzers magnetising the turrets. Things went surprisingly quickly despite some annoying stuff ups along the way. Note: make sure you get ALL the magnets in ALL the turrets glued in place with the same polarity!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge III
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II

The painting challenge starts tomorrow on the 1st of Feb, so here’s my ‘before’ photo. I’ve changed my choice of platoon to paint a little from the last post, mainly because I didn’t want to paint five Panzer IIIj lates all at the same time. The photo shows the three platoons I’ll be painting for my mid-war DAK Armored Coy:

• HQ – Two IIIj lates in the foreground along with the massive recovery half-track. The stowage is glued to a piece of 1mm plasti-card cut to fit into the back tray. I’ve done this so I can paint all the barrels etc. and then just glue them into the painted vehicle.

• Combat – The other three Panzers IV Ausf F1′s and an F2. Heh, I’ve laid them out kinda funny too I notice.

• Div Support – Flak 88′s naturally. Although I’m tossing up swapping them out for a Tiger IE. Two emplaced 88′s and a command base + the transports. If anything gets dropped from my challenge it’ll be those three transports since I haven’t assembled nor primed the flak 88 gun carriages.

I’m hoping to get all five tanks and maybe those transports mostly finished in the first month using a production line, a couple of Tamiya spray cans (German Grey + Dark Yellow) and a technique similar to the one I used to paint my 28mm Opel Blitz and Sdkfz 222 Armored car.

I’ve also started a thread over on the official Flames of War forums about this informal challenge, which seems to have generated a mild interest there too. Hopefully we’ll see some people posting images of nicely painted models in a month or so!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge Long Gone
3. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge III

To motivate ourselves we’re putting a friendly painting challenge together: Each person has three months to paint the following:

• Three platoons – preferably an HQ, Combat platoon and Support Platoon, but any three outstanding unpainted platoons will do.

Or

• 750 points of figures, or vehicles or platoons.

The idea is to paint the core of a new army, and three platoons or 750pts is half of a 1500pt army! If you’re painting three platoons that also means you can aim to finish one each month of the challenge.

To give people some prep-time for assembling and basing their figures prior to starting the challenge we’re starting the challenge on the first of February. I’m also posting the challenge up here on the blog as an open invitation to any Flames of War gamers visiting to join the challenge.

One thing we will need from anybody that does want to join in is documentary evidence in the form of digital photos. We really only need two photos – one of your unpainted forces at the start, and one of the painted forces at the end! But I’m always keen to see in-progress photos myself.

Personally I need to get some paint on my assembled and mostly primed DAK Armored Company, that’s what you see in the photo above. I’ll be painting the following three platoons:

1. HQ: Two IIIj Late Panzers.
2. Combat: Three IIIj Late Panzers.
3. Support: Divisional Heavy AA Gun Platoon (88′s!). Unlimbered only although I should get their transports painted too.

I’m considering throwing in a few prizes to motivate people if they’re interested. I was thinking either one of our 15mm straight trench kits, or a 15mm 1930′s building facade. Would that help people complete the challenge?

So who’s in?!

Related posts:

1. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge III
2. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge Long Gone
3. FOW: Three Month Painting Challenge II