Slavetopainting.co.nz My gaming buddies have just pointed out there’s a new online store in New Zealand selling Army Painter products: Slavetopainting.co.nz.

I haven’t used Army Painter products in the past myself because the cost was prohibitive by the time exchange rates and international shipping were added. I resorted to mixing my own dips instead. However now there’s a local supplier for Army Painter products with reasonable prices I may have to give them a crack. I’m also particularly interested to see how matt the Army Paint matt varnish is, considering Moana varnish is no longer being produced locally.

Slave to painting also carry a nice line of priming and basing products which also look intriguing, and are certainly considerably cheaper than Games Workshop’s equivalent products.

 

3M Automotive Etch PrimerI’ve been out of primer for a while now and after a recent purchase felt the urgent need for a new spray can. In the past I’ve used GW’s Skull White so I wandered into a local GW store in Auckland city and asked them how much a 280g can of Skull White primer costs these days. Apparently it now costs $30 NZD, after learning that I simply walked out of the store again. GW’s prices have been ridiculous for years now, and $30 for a 280g spray can is not acceptable to me. From memory the last can I bought cost me around $22 NZD and this is when the NZ/GBP exchange rate was considerably worse than it is today.

So I asked on our forum if anybody had a decent replacement option and Dustan chipped in with a suggestion. He’s using an automotive primer for his figures these days: 3M’s ‘Etch Primer’ which comes in a 400g can (see the photo). I nipped down to the local Super Cheap Auto and picked up a can for the low price of $19 NZD.

I’ve just finished priming my first batch of figures with it and it works just fine. I’ve finally primed my pewter 15mm Corvus Belli Romans as well as a box of resin Covenant of Antarctica ships for Dystopian Wars. I’ve noticed the spray coverage isn’t as fine as the Skull White can, but I’m only dusting figures and models with the primer, rather than trying to get solid coverage. A dusting of 3M’s etch primer doesn’t obscure any detail that I noticed and adheres well to plastic and pewter. It does adhere to resin, but not quite as strongly (you can scrape it off with a fingernail), but that’s fine as I’ll be over-painting it with several coats of acrylic paints. The primer has no negative effect on plastic or resin that I can detect and Vallejo and GW paints go over the primer coat just fine as well.

So if you’re sick of paying a ‘GW’ tax on their Skull White primer, try this product instead. It is just over a third cheaper, and you get more than an extra third of paint in the can as well. Thanks for the tip Dustan!

 

Hirst Arts Painted Pipe Terrain I recently picked up Hirst Arts Fieldstone Mold #75 which is pretty much a mandatory purchase for anybody using Hirst Arts for Mordheim or Fantasy terrain. As shipping internationally isn’t cheap I looked around for another Hirst Arts mold to include in my order and on a whim added the #320 5/8″ Pipe mold.

My order arrived last week and I was pleasantly surprised how much fun mold #320 is to cast and build with. It’s a pretty hungry mold plaster-wise, but a single cast gets you enough bits and pieces of pipe to make an interesting 6″ linear barrier for pretty much any 28mm scale war game you can think of. The pipe sections obviously work very well for sci-fi or modern terrain, but with the right brassy paint job a few pieces could probably be added to the side of a fantasy building for some kind of brewery or mad alchemist’s laboratory.

After casting the mold a couple of times I couldn’t resist playing with the parts and dug out a pre-cut and bevelled 3mm MDF base I had kicking around. I cut and bevelled a whole bunch of random organic shapes years ago and have been working my way through the stack ever since. It’s a great time saver for just cracking into a random terrain piece when you feel like it.

Hirst Arts Painted Pipe Terrain This bit of Necromunda/40k/Pulp terrain is made from just two casts of mold #320, a piece of cut chicken wire, some corrugated cardboard and based with a mix of kitty little and model railway ballast. The chicken wire and cardboard was used to build that little shack over a vertical tap piece which is obscured in the photos, but you can see in the unpainted terrain.

The pipes were painted with grey latex house paint and then weathered with the Vegemite technique before airbrushing them red with hobby paints and then over-painting them with my home-made dipping varnish. The base is just dry brushed with a couple of layers of dirty brown latex house paint as well. Things were left pretty generic as I plan to use this terrain for Pulp gaming, and possibly Necromunda or 40k terrain if I ever get around to playing those systems again. I’ve included a couple of Games Workshop Imperial Guard Cadians just for scale indication.

 

Dustan's Textured Paint Roller Dustan has started work on a new gaming table for the Wyrd Games Malifaux system. Malifaux is set in a decayed, urban Steampunk setting and he was looking for a quick way to create a set of cobblestone roads for the table, so he built himself a textured cobblestone roller! This is something I briefly considered trying back when I started work on my own Mordheim table, but instead I opted for casting what felt like a million Hirst Art tile pieces. However seeing Dustan’s results I wish I had actually tried it myself.

First he built a master tile from a set of cast Linka mold pieces, filling the joins with a heat cured modeling clay called Duk-it (a cheap local equivalent to Fimo) that he fired with a hot air gun.

Dustan's Rolled Texture Then, taking a small painter’s roller he applied another layer of heat cured clay onto the roller and carefully rolled that over his tile to transfer the texture. It took him a couple of cracks to get a satisfactory result, mainly because of slight problems with the different thicknesses of the cast pieces in his master tile creating voids on the roller.

Once he’d transferred the texture successfully he carefully cured the roller with the heat gun again. I’ve avoided heat cured clay in the past because I’ve always been afraid of shrinkage causing warps if you simply baked it in the oven. For some reason it never occurred to me to cure the clay with a hot air gun like this. It may take a little longer, but it seems like an excellent way to control the cure to avoid warping issues.

His resulting texture roller seems to work pretty well for what’s essentially an experiment. Here’s some more Duk-it clay textured with the roller. He can cover a lot of ground very quickly with his homebrew roller and it easily generates enough texture for nice drybrushing effects. Personally I’m looking forward to seeing some of this clay painted up! His whole roller experiment is documented on our forums here if you’re interested. The progress on his Malifaux table is on the forum too in a different thread.

 

Painting an Airfix SpitfireOur eldest son Callum had his seventh birthday recently and his Uncle’s family were kind enough to send him an Airfix model, a handful of enamel paints and a brush. After putting the Humbrol tins up on the mantelpiece (out of the reach of our inquisitive three year old) Callum and I examined the box contents with interest. His kit was the Spitfire PR Mk XIX which was a late war Spitfire adapted for high altitude photo recon with a pressurised cabin. Callum wasn’t disappointed it was cannon-less after I explained that photo recon involved secretly flying over enemy bases taking photographs.

The model was perfect for Callum, as it contained only four sprues to put together. He clipped pieces off, I cleaned them up with the Xacto blade and we dry fitted then and glued the parts together. The plane went together quickly over the course of a weekend and assembled into a tidy little Spitfire that Callum loved. We had to put it away for a week before we got a chance to paint it this weekend. A bit of blu-tack over the glassed camera ports and Callum learned how to spray prime plastic for painting.

I’ve never used enamel paints myself, as I started painting Grenadier D&D and Games Workshop 40k figures (beaky Space Marines) with Citadel acrylics back in ’82. So breaking out the Humbrol enamels was a learning exercise for both of us. Lots of mixing and a few lessons in brush control and directional painting and Callum was having a great time as you can see.

We’re half way through painting it at the moment and Callum is already talking about picking up another Airfix model to try. He’s keen on getting a tank next, possibly inspired by my collection of half painted 15mm FOW armor. I showed him the tank kits on the Airfix site and he was immediately taken with the Panzer IV, which is your archetypical armored fighting vehicle I guess!

Fortunately ModelAir, an excellent local model shop in Newmarket, have a wide range of the Airfix kits, including the Panzer IV for $17.90 which is perfectly reasonable. Although it’s out of stock at the moment – ah well I’m sure we can find a kit in store he’ll like. To be honest I no idea why we haven’t tried these Airfix kits earlier because they’re great fun!

 

As a hobbyist you always hear Dremel tools recommended. Unfortunately in New Zealand the Dremel brand seems to attract quite large premium, so I’ve avoided them until now and made do with a $40 knock off ‘hobby drill’.

That was fine until I borrowed Chris’s Dremel 300 and he pointed out Test’n'Tools sell Dremel in New Zealand for sane prices.

After using a Dremel tool first hand I can understand why people recommend them and I’ve picked up the basic Dremel 300 kit for $99nzd and added a keyless chuck so I can re-use my motley collection of bits.

For any hobbyists in New Zealand I’d heartily recommend Test’n'Tools for their reasonable prices, wide selection and excellent customer service. My order was dispatched the day after I placed it and arrived a day later in my PO Box. It’s always nice to find a local site that fast!

 

Brickarms World at War This review is a little off topic, but I’ll post anyway as it vaguely relates to war gaming, particularly if you’ve ever tried Brikwars!

I’ve been aware of Brickarms for a while now. They’re a US company that manufacture third party weapons for Lego Minifigs. I hadn’t ordered from them until recently as they don’t ship outside the US. However a Makeblog post rekinkled my interest and it seems they have an Australian reseller which I missed before.

I couldn’t resist picking up the World at War pack to add to my Lego Indiana Jones figures. At $20aud for a small pack of plastic pieces they’re not cheap, but after spending a couple of hours playing with them last night with my five year old son I figure it’s probably money well spent. Here’s a quick review of the Brickarms pack.

The pieces arrived in a small baggie and include the set of weapons you see above. I’ve photographed them next to several bonafide Lego pieces for scale. The Lego pieces are the standard shovel, the grey plastic revolver and the Star Wars blaster rifle to the far left. Overall the quality of the Brickarms pieces is excellent. They’re cast in the same hard ABS plastic that Lego is made from. This means they have the same weight and general feel to them as Lego pieces, down to the finish too. It also means they should have the same excellent long life as normal Lego pieces.

The sculpting on the weapons is superb and despite the fact some liberties have been taken to make them work with Minifigs, most of them should be instantly recognisable to any WWII buff. It was the M1 Garand and Panzerfaust in particular that compelled me to buy this pack. In fact many of the weapons are more finely detailed than their Lego equivalents which is obvious from the above photo when you compare the grey Lego revolver to the various German and American automatic pistols. A particular high point for me was the fact the Lewis gun has been sculpted with a clip at the bottom which will fit a standard Lego lever holder. That means you can easily mount the weapon on a Lego vehicle for AA protection.

Brickarms World at War on Minifigs In terms of casting they’re also very good, although unlike Lego pieces you may have to do a little clean up with an Xacto blade to remove rough scraps of plastic where the pieces have been detatched from their sprues. The weapons can be used without clean up, but the anally retentive modeller in me had to spend five minutes just tidying them up so they’re perfect. That’s really the only comment I have about the casting. Like Lego pieces they do have fine, almost unnoticable mold lines and pin ejection marks, but you can mix them with Lego pieces without any visible difference, which is a sign of quality casting.

Here’s another scale shot of Lego Indy and Henry Jones Snr ready for action. You can see the weapons look great on the figures and as I mentioned my young son has already had fun with them, conducting terrible warfare across our kitchen table as all manner of hell was unleashed. The more politically correct amoungst you (I doubt many of my visitors are but who knows) may mutter something about glorifying war etc, however as many Lego ranges already come with weapons (Lego Indiana Jones, Lego Star Wars, Lego Agents etc) I’m going to happily ignore you.

To close, Brickarms weapons are excellent and although a little pricey compared to normal Lego are well worth it, particularly if you’re already a Lego fan and want a little more variety in your Minifig armory.

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